Tashkent in Uzbekistan and Dushanbe in Tajikistan also have airports with international connections. Following this link you can get more useful information about Lenin Peak Ascent: I rested for half an hour at 6100m and then descended to 5300m Camp 2, taking one hour. Tel. Do they continue to track these ascents since the collapse of the Soviet Union? Roughly 330km. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. : (+99871) 20002 99 Pik Lenin, West-East Traverse Kyrgyzstan, Pamir In July, Markus Gschwendt (Austria) and Anton Sharobayko (Russia) made a lengthy and unusual traverse of Pik Lenin (7,134m). The 13'th of July 1990, an earthquake triggered an avalanche that wiped out Camp II on the Normal (Razdelnaya) route. Road conditions can in places be pretty rough and two switch-back passes have to be negotiated. Someone has information about the first winter ascent? It is also the favourite mountain for alpine skiers. Entering KyrgyzstanTo enter Kyrgyzstan you need a visa. You can self arrest with an axe, not with sticks. The latter month is supposed to hold the most stabile weather.The area gets frigidly cold in the winter, even though it's not as bad as at the Pik Pobeda area, which holds many records in the extreme climate criteria. Turkish Airlines offer flights from their Istambul hub. google_color_link = "0000FF"; The route is 400km easy ride to Osh. Just a day previously, team member Luca Dalla Palma (who, together with Elena Spalenza formed this three-man expedition) descended via the Normal route from 6500m using telemark skies. in the icefall, where there's a danger of falling into crevasses. Usually this visa is easy to get, but quie expensive.Call one of the Tajik Embassies for more info. Further along the body of the Lenin Glacier takes only 30 to 40 minutes. Make contact with your local Kyrgyz Embassy and talk to them about the latest visa requirements which have changed from time to time the last couple of years.Nowadays many nationals (including the EU and many other "western" country's nationals) can get a visa upon arrival in Bishkek Manas International Airport. google_ad_format = "728x90_as"; I couldn't find one. The complete story about the The 1974 Russian womens' tragedy on Peak Lenin, The mountain is most likely lower than 7000m, A Russian military map with all the details, A book-shop which has three maps and books on Pik Lenin, Pik Lenina 2004, highest Slovenian woman ski descent via the Normal route, Simona Graber, An online book-shop which has three items on Pik Lenin. If you are not a part of a pre-arranged expedition and arrived in the area on your own, you can camp in any of the company's BCs for a small fee. If you camp alone, away from the organized camps; never, ever leave your tent unattended. There are small border crossing at various places along the way east, but in order to avoid hassles with confused border guards who see a foreigner for the first time, aim for the main crossing at Andijan/Osh. Most flight search engines do not detect this connection. 550km out of Dushanbe you arrive in Khorog, the only city of any size before Murghab which is another 320km away. Pik Karla Marksa and Pik Engels are the most prominent. Moscow, Russia Getting There - From Uzbekistan The road from Tashkent to Qoqand/Kokand is mostly in good condition and there are lots of bus, mini-bus and shared-taxi alternatives. If you want to go straight to Pik Lenin and get the permits in Osh, make sure the travel agent knows about this before departure. (5A) The temperature was down to -50 degrees C. Expedition leader: Leonid Troshchinenko (Leningrad). He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. . //-->, , Pik Lenin 7134m ( formerly Mount "Red sky in the morning sailors take warning, red sky at night sailors delight ". Final­ly there is a rocky sec­tion that leads to the sum­mit. So it is "cheaper" to fall north, especially if you want your relatives to remember you with kind words. 7134m Pik Lenin is well known for predominantly two reasons; as one of the “easiest” 7000m climbs in the world, and as the site of the worst mountaineering accident, by fatality count, to ever occur. Summiteers: V.Hrishchaty, S.Arsentev, V.Balyberdin, V.Dedy, J.Moiseev, I.Tulaev. Preferably a long one, which can double as walking stick. http://piklenin2013.blogspot.com/ Pik Lenin liczy sobie 7134 m. mountain of the Pamirs, and second highest in the former Soviet Union. Steve and his partners run a little tourist company and can help you with all the arrangements for the Torugurt crossing. It is now possible to fly directly to Osh. Thanks. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high, violent water. On the next section of ridge they were faced with very windy, cold, and cloudy weather; they stopped for the night at 6,450m, rested in the tent through the following cold and windy day, then set out for Lenin's summit at 10 p.m. The Pamir Highway was long considered the most dangerous road in the world, but lately the situation has improved and there should be no danger travelling it nowadays. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; The route trav­els up snow and rock even­tu­al­ly reach­ing a plateau at 20,997 feet / 6,400 meters. As the Russian grading system takes altitude into account, the mountain's normal route has the same grade as a really technical climb. It's only climbing, for God's sake, and I am doing it for one reason and one reason only, and that's because it makes me feel alive."" The problem in this case is; it has gotten many new names.Some says Peak Kaufman is the new official name. Pik Lenina (česky též Leninův štít, kyrgyzsky Ленин Чокусу - Lenin Čokosu; rusky пик Ленина - pik Lenina; tádžicky қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино - doslova „vrchol Avicenny“) je s výškou 7134 metrů nad mořem nejvyšší vrchol Zaalajského hřbetu a druhý nejvyšší vrchol v bývalé sovětské části pohoří Pamír. The 3000m Dolon pass give you great views of the lush countryside and probably it's here you first see nomads. google_ad_format = "336x280_as"; Be sure it's written Gorno Badakhshan A. O. on it. The It's enough for the sections you'll need a rope, i.e. Lenin Peak is located on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan in the Pamir mountain system. You avoid the mountainous parts of Tajikistan and travel most of the way in valleys. (ie. --Alan Mullin, Gorno-Badakhshan A.O., Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan, Asia, Routes Easier access and easier routes are the main practical reasons why a vast majority choose the Kyrgyz side. : +996 312 694074E-mail: asiamountains@mail.ruWebsite: http://www.asiamountains.net/enRecommended.Ak-Sai65, Sovetskaya str720005 BishkekKyrghyz RepublikPhone: 996 /312/ 54 42 77Fax: 996 /312/ 54 42 19E-mail: info@ak-sai.comhttp://www.ak-sai.comRecommended.Asia Travel Group97, Chilanzarskaya str., 700115, Tashkent, UzbekistanTel. Touroperator in Central Asia "Central Asia Travel" also provides similar services. google_ad_width = 336; Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. This magnificent peak looks down over the Alay valley, home to many nomadic Kyrgyz living in Yurts and known for their horse farming along with the local speciality of fermented horse milk known as Kumis. Mountaineering | ", Thanks for all the great info on this luring peak! The trio had left Italy on 17 July for Kirghizistan and reached Base Camp … The road is going through a sensitive military zone on the Chinese side and special transport has to be arranged. Initial exploration of this part of Central Asia occurred in the period 1774–82. i looked into the Asia Mountains Guide company you listed to find more info and found the site link to have changed. The whole range attracts clouds and many times it's overcast. Asian Explorations is also run by the same people.Usually, you pay for a trip all the way to Bishkek and with an overnight stay in Naryn. the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m). They can help out with everything from support letters/invitations before take-off to transport, BC-services and guides on the mountain.Asia MountainsSergei Dudashvili (director)1, Lineinaja Str., 720021, Bishkek, KyrgyzstanTel. Have a good flight ! You are allowed to camp anywhere in the area.Base Camp SafetyMany stories about thefts in the BCs are in circulation. Though 3 Italians on my flight lost their luggage - I have no information how it was resolved. Detailed map of Lenin Peak area and scheme of arrival in Base Camp of Lenin Peak. Peak Lenin, near base camp.jpg 4,068 × 2,712; 3.17 MB Pik Lenin - ascent routes nord.jpg 2,409 × 1,091; 217 KB Pik Lenin from Sary-Mogol.JPG 864 × 648; 106 KB View Pik Lenin Image Gallery - 196 Images. the permit fee is still $100/peak and some new and ever-chaging rules about the need for a nature conservation fee applies. http://www.centralasia-travel.com/en/expeditions/lenin. If you want proof that Friday 13th is an unlucky day, look no further. Many climbers also come back with fond memories of having "camped with nomads" and great horse-back rides on the grasslands. Lenin Peak – Via the Razdelnaya Route. Quite a good article here about a snowboard descent in 1999... If staying in the camps, try to camp close to the dining tent of the administrative center. Arguably the first recorded travel through the region is the involuntary journey of the slave Filipp Efremov (an ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. The only negative aspect with this route is the local uprisings and ungoing blood feuds which have plagued the area since the dawn of time. A harness, karabiners, slings for roping up etc. Lenin Peak usually is the starting point for the Snow Leopard program. Via Toktogul.National Highway 41 takes you first over the Töö-Ashuu Pass (3586m) to Toktogul which is roughly 300km from Bishkek. can you still obtain this title?) Green rolling pastures with the yurts of the nomadic Kyrgyz sprinkled through the lush valley. You can also eat in their dining tents for a set fee and if you do so, you're usually allowed to camp for free on their grounds if you use your own tent. climb from Camp 3). That link leads to a very good page, which I added a long time ago on the main page for The Snow Leopards. Mountain (climbing) weather forecasts for 5 elevations of Pik Lenin, Pamir, Central Asia Ranges, Tajikistan. Pik Lenin in the center of the picture. If you fall to the South, it will cost a fortune to search for your remnants - The South Face of Lenin peak can only be reached by a helicopter - and it's not cheap. Pik Lenin and the Trans-Alay range of Kyrgyzstan offer huge kaleidoscope landscapes with many ski touring opportunities - an expedition on the 7,000m Peak In total, 43 climbers out of a 45 die. Most companies charge 2 Euros/night for a night in their spacious two men tents.Most companies offer satellite phone calls, but they tend to be quite expensive.Gear storage is available for free for expedition members and for a small fee for those climbing alone. Just ask for "Alpinist-Wladimir" and the person you ask will know.The only way to reach Pik Lenin from central Tajikistan is to travel on the Pamir Highway and for this you need an additional permit.